NJ IN LA

View Original

The Bread Steals the Show at Agnes Restaurant & Cheesery in Pasadena

I like meeting friends in Pasadena because it’s relaxed, close to home, and there’s typically ample parking; three things that have grown in importance to me as I age in my 30s. I wouldn’t call it maturation, although that has blossomed exponentially, rather I’d link it to my increasing aversion to chaos. Unfortunately, the caliber of dining in Pasadena is not where I’d like to be, especially for lunch options, so when a new restaurant opens up, I am eager to check out the prospective establishment. I’ve spent decades dining in the area and beyond and what I’ve been hurting for in Pasadena is a well-designed restaurant that serves excellent coffee, salads, small plates, and sandwiches. An excellent upscale café if you will. For casual café offerings, I enjoy Porta Via, Superba, and Little Flower. Tartine is a go-to for reliable coffee and pastries. Beyond that, I’m dissatisfied.

Last summer, I was elated when I read about the opening of Agnes Restaurant & Cheesery on Eater. The coverage included gorgeous photos of their stand-out plates alongside the restaurant’s interior. It was an environment I wanted to experience and the story of the married owners, Vanessa and Thomas Tilaka Kalb, who’ve worked alongside each other in note-worthy kitchens, intrigued me.

The Food

Agnes describes its menu as an evolution of family dishes reimagined with an emphasis on comfort. Their website proudly states that they’re inspired by food like grandma used to make. My grandmother made enchiladas, albondigas, and tamales, which I couldn’t find anywhere on the menu but I digress, my intention upon visiting was to eat cheese and explore their lunch options.

When I’m not eating with my husband, I am oftentimes with my favorite dining partner, Jane Shin, and we’re always in sync with what we want to order. She and I are generally drawn to sour, salty, savory, spicy, fatty, and other strong flavors. Jane, like myself, enjoys sampling a variety of dishes on any given menu. Ideally, when we come together we’ll order at least 4 to 6 different plates alongside a couple of drinks. We both opted for a deliciously refreshing non-alcoholic beverage whose name escapes me but it was the perfect drink for anyone who likes sweet bubbles without the buzz. It was absolutely delightful and I look forward to ordering from their Non-Spirits menu again.

The restaurant is also a cheesery which is evident when you walk through the front doors. Upon entering the space, you’re greeted with baskets of natural wines, stacks of artisanal chocolates, and a gorgeous deli case filled with cheeses from around the globe. It’s an impressive display in the market area. So beautiful, that you’ll take your time investigating each thoughtfully selected item. A quick glimpse of the abundant cheese selection filled me with excitement and I was hyped for the cheese board that we decided to order at the start of our meal. Unfortunately, I was underwhelmed with what we were presented but I do not blame the cheese, I blame the lifeless crackers and corn nuts that accompanied them. The cheeseboard lacked the sophistication that I had anticipated, especially after reading about the time and attention put into cheese curation at the restaurant. The monger selected a sample of fine cheeses for us but the accoutrements took away from the experience. I wouldn’t order this again until I knew the spread was drastically upgraded.

Along with our cheese, we ordered the Beets & Citrus which were listed under Sides & Snackadoos. I appreciate the playfulness, especially during a time when much of what I’m seeing in this country is so dark. The dish, made with marinated roasted beets, local blood and Cara Cara oranges, pistachio yogurt, tarragon, and caraway was my favorite of our lunch selection. The dish was gorgeous in presentation and vibrant in both flavor and textures. 

For our mains, we selected the Tommy Salame sandwich along with the Red Oak Lettuces salad. I’m usually the last person to say anything about the price of food in a restaurant, but the Red Oak Lettuces salad was $15.99 (pretty standard these days) but left everything to be desired. So much, I don’t even want to post the photo I snapped because it’s so sad. Made with tahini green goddess dressing, shaved baby carrots, and avocado, this disappointing dish looked like a larger version of a fast-casual restaurant side salad found on a road trip along a deserted highway. I was flabbergasted. That’s not to say I don’t enjoy the simple things in life. Have you tried the $14 Boston Lettuce Salad at Petit Trois? It’s lettuce and dressing and it’s absolutely divine. 

Rounding out the food was our sandwich which was served on life-affirming house-made ciabatta. I cannot sing the praises of this bread enough. It was a revelation in Pasadena. Unfortunately, the ingredients between the two slices, spicy capicola, Toscano mortadella, Provolone, iceberg, giadiniera, oregano, and djionnaise, didn’t hit like I had anticipated, but the bread deserves as much praise as I can give it. Perhaps there was a bit too much dijon in the dijonnaise? The sandwich also lacked the bit of wet sour on an Italian sandwich I’m accustomed to. I wouldn’t order this again but I would absolutely buy the bread. What a special loaf.

We concluded our meal with coffee and much to my delight, they make a perfect cappuccino at Agnes. Much love and appreciation to the person who crafted my drink. It means so much to me when a coffee preparator executes excellence in a cup. This cappuccino has been on my mind since I drank it 2 weeks ago. Do you know how difficult it is to find a proper cappuccino? Served in a beautiful cup no less. Tres parfait! 

The Scene

Agnes is a great spot to meet a friend for lunch, go on a date, or hang out at the bar. It’s ample sized and offers a variety of seating options, from plenty alfresco to a cozy plaid-filled interior. The design is elevated while maintaining a down-to-Earth decor. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the gorgeous marble at the bar. I look forward to pulling up a seat to fully experience its beauty. The time and attention poured into the details of Agnes are apparent. 

If you’re looking for something on the go, the market is superb. As a beverage connoisseur, I was bowled over at the number of libations offered, both alcoholic and otherwise. From natural wines to sparkling Riesling, I was delighted to be overwhelmed by the options. One high-quality ciabatta, olives, and an array of cheeses from the deli would make for a delicious spread if you’re having guests over or enjoying a party of one.

Price & Service

For lunch: Mains $14.99 - $24.99, Sides $5.99 - $16.99

Drinks: Spirit Free $10 and under, Beer $10, Wine & Cocktails $12 - $17

Service was excellent from start to finish, which is part of the reason I’d like to return to sample more of the menu, both at brunch at dinner. The host was warm and considerate, giving us time to decide whether we wanted to sit inside or out – we were a bit goofy in our decision making so I appreciated his patience. Our server was attentive, kind, and lovely to converse with. We felt very welcomed and comfortable in the space, never rushed and always considered. 

Location

Agnes
40 West Green Street
Pasadena, CA 91105
+1 626 389 3839

More L.A. Restaurants

See this gallery in the original post